The Crossings is located in Webster Groves at 35 North Gore
By the time you receive this newsletter, the Tartan Day Parade will be history.† Hope there is a good showing from our club.† Plan to attend the Easter Car Show at Forest Park.† It is held on the upper Muny Opera lot. Given good weather it is a great show with a tremendous variety of cars. Restored cars, from muscle cars to Model Ts to Lamborghinis to tiller-steered curved-dash Oldsmobiles are well represented.† Get there early (like about 11 AM) to navigate the crowd.† A hot rod show takes place on the lower Muny lot.† Typically this has not been a big event for our club.† As in previous years, the Healey Club has graciously agreed to sponsor some slots for those who wish to participate in the show, giving our members the benefit of a club rate.† They plan to meet and enter the park as a group.
Some of our members may require the occasional tool for that occasional British car repair.† With that in mind, I recently examined the new Cummins Tool store on St. Charles Rock Road.† Simultaneously, Creig Houghtaling examined the store in Fenton. We agree that it is a worthy Harbor Freight competitor, with somewhat fewer tools and more lawn furniture and camping equipment.† I got a five cell aluminum flashlight (Brinkman-like, but made in China) for $9.99!† Very exciting, but I lead a dull life.† Check it out!
In other ramblings, tonight I looked at a 1995 XJS convertible priced lower than a decent TR.† This has the six cylinder engine, apparently preferable to the widely feared V 12.† The quality is awesome, though the styling is less than inspirational.† Are the parts and repairs really that horrible?† In another issue of interest to anglophiles, Anice and I have gotten hooked on two vintage British television shows.† First we watched "The Prisoner" which starred Patrick McGoohan.† This led to that show's predessor, "Secret Agent/Danger Man" which first appeared in the U.S. in 1965.† We really enjoy the shows in spite of some cheesy sets and productions.† McGoohan drives a Mini Cooper and a Lotus Seven. In the most recent episode the bad guy chased Danger Man in a Lotus Cortina.† The primary focus is on the stories, not the cars, however.† These stories are head and shoulders above "The Avengers" or "The Man From UNCLE."
As summer approaches, lots of club events will be scheduled.† Hope you join us for fun and fellowship!
Future meetings at Schlafly was discussed.† They didnít seem to have a way to accommodate our needs.† Other venues might be discussed.
Endurance Rally is March 20th.† Several teams from the club are planning to participate.
Besterís wash-up tune-up.† April 10th.† Keith Besterís house.† 115 N. Sappington Rd., Webster Groves, (314) 821-2372.
Easter Car Show at Forrest Park.† April 11th.† We will join the Healey club for display.† Contact Ron Varley.
Tartan Day parade.† April 3rd.† Show up at 11:00 AM, Golden Rod Parking lot in St. Charles.† More info from Dave Massey (314) 966-6056.
Thirteenth Champaign British Car Festival.† May 28th to 30th.† http://www.wvbscc.org/cbcf/
SLTOA summer picnic.† Wednesday June 9th.† Same location as last year.
Nominations for Officers Election to be held at the March meeting.† Gary Allgood, President.† Joe Mueller or Bob Berger, Vice President, Chris & Kathy Kresser, Activities directors.† Please bring other nominations to the March meeting.
Stress Reduction workshop.† Sunday May 2nd.† Weíll use the route that would have been the Polar Bear Run.
Welcome to Matt Gossett, our newest member.
Happy birthday Anice Etz.† Thanks for sharing your cake.† YUM!
Don found the following instructions in an old book that he had.† He photocopied the page and sent it to me.† I have reproduced it here verbatim.† The directions sound like they are for a specific car, so verify all specific values with reliable sources for your car.
1. Remove valve cover and spark plugs, slacken off both bolts of rear throttle spindle coupling.† Remove air cleaners and wash filter element.† Undo clip for outer choke cable on front carb linkage and remove clevis pin from rear carb choke connecting rod.
2. Test compressions - should be approximately equal for good timing.
3. If a "C" type wrench adapter is not available remove rocker shaft assembly to torque all head bolts to 100 lbs./ft.
4. Adjust rocker clearance (.010 cold).† All adjustments to be made on the back of the cam.
5. Clean and adjust dist gap (.015).† Light smear of grease on cam.† Check auto advance.
6. Check static ignition timing (4įB.T.D.C., subject to local fuel octane value). Using test 12V. lamp.
7. Clean and adjust spark plugs (.025"). Lodge CNY Spark Plug.
8. Check fuel level in carbs.† Quick check with dash pots off - hold jets in rich position - fuel should not flood over top of jets - if it does, adjust levels to Ĺ".† Check that needles arc free and not binding in jets.
9. Replace dash pots and top up dampers with oil.† SAE 20 for summer SAE 5 for winter.
10. Run engine to warm up to normal temperature (185įF).
11. Screw up jet adjusting nuts (turn clockwise) to full weak position and turn back 5 flats on each nut.
12. As the carb throttle spindles are disconnected (step I) turn each throttle adjusting screw to produce the same hissing sound at 800 rpm (or same vacuum reading on Uni Syn gauge).
13. Check that the fast idling screw is not interfering with this adjustment on the front carb.
14. Now check each carb individually for correct mixture.† To check front carb, cut out rear carb by lifting rear piston all the way up, the engine will run on the front carb.† The revs should rise slightly and fall immediately to about a steady 400 rpm.† Check the rear carb by reversing this process.† The jet adjusting nuts will probably have to be either weakened or enriched by trial and error to get desired results.
15. Recheck the "hiss" on each carb at 800 rpm - this may have risen on one or other due to improving the mixture. Adjust on throttle screws if necessary.
16. Tighten throttle spindle coupling, ensuring that the throttle screws are on their stops, lubricate throttle linkage.† Replace choke linkage, making sure that there is a little slack in cable so as not to pull the jets down.† Replace air cleaner and adjust fast idling screw.
It's just a few days now until the kick off to the 2004 driving season is here.† The 9th Annual Missouri Endurance Rally and 2nd Missouri Mini-Endurance Trial will be taking place on Saturday, March 20th.† We'll meet at 6:30 a.m. in the conference room for a driver's meeting and then we'll do a odometer check run with team pictures being taken after that. This year, the check run will end back at the host hotel so if you forgot anything or need to make a last minute pit-stop before we hit the road, you'll be able to do so.†† Speaking of the host hotel, it will be the Red Roof Inn - West Port at 11837 Lackland Rd.† Their phone number is 314-991-4900.† When you make reservations, please tell them that you're with the MG Club Rally so that we'll be given credit toward our use of the conference room.
I'm pretty happy with the stop locations I've picked and I think they'll take you to some fantastic roads.† I've been to 9 of the 10 so far and will hit number 10 next Friday.† This year there will be a set of questions to answer instead of pictures.† I decided to do it this way so that the MER will be in line with the other two events in the new Triple Crown Endurance Rally Series† -† The Grand Lake Tour in August and the Abingdon Endurance Trial in October. (I would appreciate those of you with digital cameras to take lots of pictures and send a copy of the files to me.)
We have a Jaguar XK120 and a Bentley T2 signed up to take on the MG's and Triumphs.† No Austin-Healeys yet, but I'm sure they're not going to let us have all the fun without giving us a run for the money!!† I'd like to encourage everyone out there to talk your fellow club members into giving the event a try.† If nothing else, maybe they'll consider trying out the mini-endurance trial (12-hours/5-stops) just to get their feet wet.† Who knows?† Maybe they'll come back for the full monty next year.
Well, time's going to fly on you so remember to change that oil, check those fluids and tires, pack up your spares and tools, and bring your map books!† Also since you'll be looking for answers, you might need to bring a flashlight to use to find them at some of the stops.
Please e-mail me if you have any questions!
Robert Rushing, RARUSHIN@up.com
MG Club of St Louis
Ken Dahman, I heard that you once lost a wheel off of your TR3A. Would you tell me that story?
OK, well one warm summer evening, Sue and I took a top down drive in the3A to Ted Drewes' place on Chippewa.† We were returning to our home on I-44 when we heard a noise in the rear of the car.† We decided to exit the interstate and go over to Keith Bester's garage for a consultation.† We got to Keith's but no one was home.† So after a quick (too quick) inspection, we resumed our trip home.† On this leg of the journey, we went through Kirkwood and onto Sugar Creek road.† The noise was coming and going, so we proceeded at under 30MPH through a right hand curve in the road.† Suddenly, we felt a jolt; I looked to the left and saw a wheel from the 3A proceeding past us, toward the left side of the road.† The car began to do a slow spin and after some distance, came to a rest, front pointing back from where we came.† The speed had scrubbed off very quickly, so when the rear of the car came to rest up against a tree, very little damage was done.† The tail pipe was embedded into the tree trunk, however.
Ken& Sue Dahman and their beautiful TR3.
What happened was my first reaction.† After ascertaining Sue was fine and no apparent injuries to me, I jumped out to survey the cause and damage.† The driver's side rear wheel came off.† Yes, that's right; the entire wheel came off and disappeared several hundred feet down the road.
We called the tow truck, and loaded the 3A on the flat bed, but we could not find the wheel by the roadside.† We were delivered back home safe and sound with no wheel and only minor body damage to the car.
The next day, inspection reveled that the wheel studs that attach the wire wheel hub to the brake drum had sheered off. Of course, that's why the wheel separated from the car, but why would all the studs sheer?
I discussed the event with the guys that frequent Keith's garage.† While there were a number of guesses, nothing seemed plausible.† Why that wheel???† Especially since that wheel and axle was worked on to repair a leaky outer seal just two weeks before and it was fine then? One of life's mysteries we surmised.
So, with Keith's assistance, new studs were installed and the wire wheel hub adaptor was reattached.† Now, the manual says that the back side edges of the studs should be "peened", that is, the thread edges should be distorted to prevent the stud from un-screwing.† We decided to a spot tack weld instead.† Just to make absolutely sure that the studs would not unscrew.
So, after the mechanical repair, I drove the car (with Keith following in his big Healey) over to Tom Roy's house for Tom to repair the body damage and paint the effected areas.
A few days later, Tom called Keith and told him an unusual story.† By coincidence, I was there having a Bud Light with Keith.† Seems that as Tom was driving the TR3 into the garage, the driver's side rear wheel fell off.† YES, the same wheel!!!† The studs had sheered off again.
Well, Keith and I turned a little pale. I again had escaped a serious accident while driving the 3A.
The 3A finally was repaired with a replacement axle and brake drum and wheel studs which we obtained from a used parts house.† We replaced the whole unit.† Since the studs were already in place, we did not tack weld them.
I am happy to report that the TR3-A has been driven over four thousand miles since that final wheel and axle repair with no more incidents.† Yes, I inspect all of the wheels on a regular basis. Gives me some assurance when at speed.
So, what went wrong? Both times?
It was something that I read on the Triumph internet discussion list.† I read something about how heat takes the temper out of steel, and weakens it.† When I read that, I remembered the mechanic, to whom I took the TR3 to in order to get the wheel hub off of the axle to replace the leaky outer axle seal, telling me that "that hub was really a bear to get off. it was really rusted on. I really had to pour the heat to it for the press to break it freeĒ.† Heat.† I wonder, could that have been the cause of the studs sheering off the first time?† Then I remembered, "tack weld".† More heat. and the second time the studs sheered at Tom's house.
Well, I have no proof. But me and the guy's, who partake of the suds at Keith's garage, believe that the heat was the cause of both wheel loss situations.
So, be careful when using a torch or welder around wheel studs and the like.
Happy motoring everyone.
Live (thankfully) from Florida. Ken and Sue
Matt Gossett found SLTOA from our web site.† He joined on line.† Gary Allgood welcomed him.† The following was Mattís return note to Gary introducing himself.† I asked Matt if I could use his letter in the newsletter here as an introduction.† Hope everyone gets to know Matt!
How are you?† Thanks for returning my email.† I looked over the website, it looks great.
I'm excited to begin a membership with SLTOA if that's possible.† No problem with the membership fee but, since I'm attending night classes at Wash U., I may be unable to attend all the monthly meetings.
I bought my 1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500, my first car, after I cooked and waited tables at Massa's in Kirkwood the summer after my sophomore year at Kirkwood High.† That was in 1986.† It was my every day car for high school and a portion of my college career at SMSU in Springfield.† After SMSU, I got a car that was a bit more† "reliable" and garaged the Spit for 11 years.
About 3 years ago, I started restoring it.† The engine work was done at Auto's of Europe and included brakes, clutch, ignition, new floors in the cab and trunk, electrical work, suspension, rewelding and bolstering of the frame, fuel system, you name it.† The body work was done at Honea Auto Body at 7145 Manchester Road.† I bought all new parts where I could and they did the rest.† It looks bloody fabulous.† I just had my factory hardtop reworked with a new headliner as well.† The interior I've done myself (it was pretty easy) and all I have to do now is bolt down my seatbelts and chairs, mount a new amp in the trunk and install a few interior body panel pieces.† All in all, I have about 20 hours worth of stuff to do.† I still have to have a soft top made.
I can't wait for the weather to get warm so I can get out there and turn some heads.
Anyway, let me know how I can get more involved.† I'll continue checking the website for updates.
Thanks much,† Matt Gossett† 314-496-6692
Last month I reviewed Burt Levyís books, The Last Open Road, Montezumaís Ferrari, and The Fabulous Trashwagon.† But Iím a horrible writer and even worse salesman.† I donít expect very many people will go out and buy any of Burtís books from what I had to say about them.† So I asked Burt if I could use some of his writing.† He is a great writer.† And when you are talking about books, itís the story and the writing that sells.† He gave me permission in exchange for promotion of his books.† After reading the following story, if you like his style of writing, you can go to his web site and buy your own copy at: www.thelastopenroad.com
The following is a story originally published in British Car, June 1991.† I copied it from Burtís collection of short stories, Potside Companion published in 2001.
Elvis and Me, By B. S. Levy
a young shirttail tad when I first realized that the One True Destiny of my life was to become an internationally renowned Grand Prix megastar and endurance racing champion. Okay, so maybe I hadn't quite figured how my beat-up, six-hundred-dollar TR3 would lead me (by some mystical, predestined path) to Monaco, Monza and Le Mans. But I had faith. I was young. And innocent. And impressionable. And not a little stupid. Ah, youth, that bright springtime of springy muscle and brassy ignorance when great deeds still seem possible. And worth the freaking trouble.
To tell the truth, my original TR3 racecar was a bit of a heap (hey, what do you expect for 600 bucks?) but it had a rollbar, a gutted interior, a better motor than I knew, and a set of Goodyear R2s dating back to the signing of the Magna Carta by King John. Best of all, in spite of several embarrassingly obvious mechanical and cosmetical shortcomings, that TR was within what I laughingly referred to as "my racing budget." Actua1ly, back in those days I didn't really have what you or I or anybody else could truly call "a racing budget," as my finances were governed instead by a sort of free-floating, fully elasticized Debt Ceiling governed only by the gross number of individuals and/or corporate financial entities to whom/which I could owe more money than I had to at any given time. If some demon-tweak doodad or high-performance whatsis put a shiny twinkle in my eye, hey, I bought it! And only resorted to cash when a guy wouldn't take my checks or credit cards anymore. This sort of activity is more-or-less S.O.P. among young, poor, under-employed (or occasionally unemployed) aspiring racers, and I'm proud to say our elected officials in Washington have seen the light and duly adopted those same, race-proven financial principles.
Believe it or not, I had no intimate knowledge of mechanics whatsoever when I bought/financed/finagled myself into that first raggedy TR3. My assumption was that sports car racing operated much as I'd observed in the popular Elvis Presley movies of the era. Not that I'd made a real study of those movies or anything, as mostly I'd caught only occasional glimpses of them whilst coming up for air from other, more pressing activities at the local Drive-in. But I had at least absorbed that, according to Elvis, racing cars worked something like this: you fired them up, put your foot down, and the best driver (who was also invariably the best singer and played the meanest lead guitar) eventually won. the big race. Against insurmountable odds, natch. But the prize money was always enough to prevent the foreclosure on the Old Man's (played by either a bargain basement Mickey Rooney or Burgess Merideth imitation) garage where they worked on the car. And then of course he got the Big Factory Drive over in Europe and earned the hand of the large-boned girl with bouffant hair, succulent lips, heavy eye shadow and World Class yabboes.
By God, I could handle that.
What I didn't understand at the time was how the nuts-and-bolts reality of the machinery occasionally intruded on the story line. See, besides the Old Man, Elvis always had himself a super-handy pit crew that inevitably included a mechanical1 wizard sidekick (usually named 'Shorty,' 'Spike,' or 'Scotty') plus a bumbling, absent minded professor-type Pit Doofus ('Elmer') and, sometime during the movie, the three of them would put in three or four whole minutes in the garage, banging on the valve cover of Elvis' racecar with box-end wrenches. The large-boned girl with the bouffant hair was there, too, trying to help out (but of course she couldn't do much except stand around with her coveralls open about four buttons, on account of. she was a girl). Yet, even so, she always managed to get at least one large and dramatic grease smudge across her cheek. Right under the eyeliner.
To my horror, I discovered that real life was quite a bit different. First off, I never managed to locate a mechanical whiz 'Shorty,' 'Spike,' or 'Scotty' to help me out. Or even an 'Elmer,' for that matter. Secondly, I learned that all you get by banging on your valve cover with a box-end wrench is a lumpy valve cover. And as to the large-bone girl mentioned above, none of the women I'd ever met were in anything even remotely resembling the same Silhouette Class as Elvis' ladies. And not one of them seemed enthused about Saturday nights spent hanging around a cold, dingy, back-alley garage until four in the morning, setting the wiring on fire or banging on the valve cover with a box end wrench. By the way, did you ever notice how the more Elvis ignored his leading ladies, the harder they chased after him? Somehow it worked precisely the opposite for me. To tell the truth, as little as I understood about car mechanics-and it was damn little, believe me-I knew even less about women....
Another thing I discovered was that the ratio of garage time to actual track time as depicted in the Elvis movies was grossly out of whack. I never did a scientific study about it or anything, but my guess is your average neophyte, incompetent, shadetree-variety toolbox bungler needs a minimum six to seven hours in the shop for every 60 seconds or so of track time. And that's assuming the idiot doesn't slow the process down by, say, knocking the car off its jackstands or setting his overalls on fire with a blowtorch. Or perhaps by making one of those silly little mechanical mistakes that mean you have to take everything apart (often for the umpty-hundredth time) because you've put the foofnik valve in backwards. Or left it out entirely; See, there it is. Over on the floor in the corner. Resting majestically under a used gasket box in a half-quart puddle of spilled gearlube.
But the toughest lesson of all had to do with the dirty little reality of how races are actually won. In defiance of every piece of racing fiction I'd ever read, seen on the screen, or listened to firsthand over a barstool, the hard fact was-and is-that most races are won by superior equipment rather than gallant driving. Honest. Oh, sometimes a really great driver in a reasonably good car can beat a middling average driver in a somewhat better car. And for sure lousy drivers can find ways to lose in almost anything. But nobody wins races in a truly lousy car. Not even Stroker Ace. In fact, it was well before halftime on my first-ever race weekend that I discovered the horrid, Orwellian truth of things: not all TR3s (or MGBs, Sprites, Spitfires, or whatever) are created equal. Some turned out to be lots more equal than others....
Which caused me to abandon my search for an appropriately large-boned pit tootsie (complete with Max Factor cheek smudge) and turn my full attention to the classic and inevitable rookie racer's snipe hunt: ferreting out the jealously guarded speed secrets of... The Fast Guys.
Anyone with eyes could see the differences between genuine Fast Guy racecars and my own. Fast Guy cars were invariably low, slick, swift and sanitary, whereas my TR3 looked like one of those plastic car models seven-year-olds build, complete with gluebobs, fingerprint smudges, and dangling chrome trim. Plus, the Fast Guys all had the latest, super-trick tuned exhaust headers and spun aluminum velocity stacks and God knows what-all going on inside their engines. For sure, Fast Guy motors produced a piercing, razor-sharp howl that was all lean meat, while my poor engine sounded more like the putt-putt Massey Ferguson tractor mill from which it rightfully descended. But, hey, all I needed to close the gap was some of those real, Fast Guy racing parts! Then maybe I could be (dare I even think it?) a Fast Guy myself!
It was all so bloody simple....
And so, dear reader, I steeled my loins (which can get awfully cold in the winter-time), abandoned any remaining semblance of fiscal responsibility, and descended into the bewildering, labyrinth nether world of Trick Parts and Go-Faster Goodies. As if by magic, I acquired literally dozens of poorly printed, highly priced catalogs chock-full of things I just had to have. My credit cards began to heave and pulsate in my billfold, as if possessed by a life and will of their own. Indeed, what I originally perceived as no more than the purchase a few alloy trinkets became the entrance to a churning, never-ending, downward technological spiral that ground up innocence (and any available cash balances) like cheap hamburger meat.
Abandon hope, all ye that enter here....
But of course you never find that out until later. See, the way it works is this: no matter where you race or what you race, there is always somebody who has estab≠lished himself as The Fast Guy for your particular marque and model. So you start hanging around him, you know, like maybe some of that Fast Guy magic will rub off. But it never, ever does. That's because Fast Guys are always too cool. In fact, it's one of the basic Fast Guy rules.
Fr'example, a genuine Fast Guy never gives a simple, direct answer to a simple, direct question. Not ever. Like, say you mosey over after a race during which the Fast Guy has lapped you maybe five or six times as if your racecar is dragging a freaking twelve-foot Yule log behind it on a forty-foot length of anchor chain. So you ease up beside him and nonchalantly inquire: "Hey, what kinda brake pads you runnin' on that thing anyway?" or "Hey, what'cha doin' fer tire pressures front n'back, huh?" or maybe "Hey, howcum you blow by me like I'm dragging a twelve-foot Yule log on a forty-foot length of anchor chain?"
Invariably, the Fast Guy just smiles, winks, and ,says something thoroughly inscrutable like "piston domes."
"Hell, yes. You got to have the pop-up piston domes to get higher compression and the proper flame front propagation."
"Flame front? Propawhat?"
"Absolutely. Gotta have the right flame front."
"Whaa?? You do???"
"Surrrre," he answers like you maybe should've learned it in grade school.
Naturally, the Fast Guy just happens to have a spare set of pop-up, domed pistons back home in his garage. Which he will happily sell you-used-for about what you earn in a week. By the way, the reason he has an extra set lying around is because he's already switched to a new flat-top piston setup on his engine, so he can use a new, top-secret, high-lift/mega-overlap cam that produces more horsepower than you could ever get with pop-up pistons. But of course you don't know that, and the Fast Guy isn't about to tell you. So you cough up the cash (unless he's still taking your checks) and then spend forty or fifty carefree garage hours-generally between midnight and six ayem-putting in your new (used) set of high-domed, pop-up pistons. Or trick new scatter-pattern cam. Or lightweight aluminum flywheel. Or whatever.
Thing is, once you get everything installed and buttoned back together (a process which inevitably puts your banker on a first-name basis with the guy who runs your local machine shop) you discover that, besides making you motor run a hell of a lot stronger, the new pistons (or cam, or head, or whatever) often make it run a bunch shorter as well. Yes sir, no more than two laps into your new engine's first practice ses≠sion there commences a mighty clattering sound wrapped in a foul-smelling, impenetrable curtain of smoke and steam. Whoops. You instinctively switch off (talk about closing the barn after the horse has left!) and pull silently to the side, feeling a great void in the general area of your wallet. She's done blowed, by crackey! Shit!
Later on, the Fast Guy comes around to offer his condolences and cluck over the jagged, fist-sized hole in the side of your engine block. He shakes his head slowly from side to side and whispers "crank balancer."
"Hell, yeah. Yíjust gotta have the crank balancer. Makes all the difference in the world..." And, naturally enough, he just happens to have an extra one back home in his garage. Which is when it slowly begins to dawn that rookies like you are situated at the very bottom of the trick parts food chain, like some giant, dim-witted, prehistoric species of hardware-sucking carp. And you yearn to escape. To get out. To get ahead. To get even. To become (drum roll, please)...a real, live Fast Guy yourself!
All it takes is more than you'll ever have....
Editorís note:† If you would like to see additional installments from Burt Levy, drop me a note and let me know.† If I get a few positive responses, Iíll copy one or two more stories in months to come.
Classified Ads:† Contact Creig Houghtaling at the address listed below, or firstname.lastname@example.org or 636-305-1143 to place a free ad in this newsletter.
1972 TR6, Needs restoration, no top, body panels not rusted, Frame has surface rust, Battery and floor panels should be replaced, all there. $500 as is. Arlie King 636-677-0545 evenings or email email@example.com
SLTOA Shirts, $25, Call Bonnie David for delivery to out next meeting.† (636) 949-0825
Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid $10.00 per quart.† Major mail-order vendors sell 12-ounce containers for $5 plus shipping.† No major auto suppliers sell it locally.† So I bought a 12-quart case from the St. Louis distributor so that I could have a quart to do some brake work.† This is the fluid recommended for our Triumphs.† Iíll use nothing else!† Creig Houghtaling firstname.lastname@example.org 636-305-1143
Auto Painting† Steve Street is looking for someone to do some body and paint work on his Spitfire.† If you know of someone who can do good work at a reasonable price, please give him a call at: (314) 846-2554
St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
Creig Houghtaling, Editor
36 Copper Mountain Court
Fenton, MO 63026