Come one, come all, bring us your tales of success & frustration to Nicoletti’s Tuesday Feb. 20th (hope I got the date right this time). Easy to find, @ the intersection of Big Bend & 141, located in the strip mall on the south west corner.
The Polar Bear run will be yesterday’s news by the time you read this (with any luck). Our eyes will be set on the next big adventure. The wonderful thing about having all these events to choose from is that they double as deadlines to get that project, whatever it may be, completed beforehand so we can take part.
I've heard grumblings, and am guilty myself of making remarks unflattering of recent temperatures and road conditions. I was foolish enough last week to tell myself that, "we're through the bulk of it, & spring is just around the corner" (which IS actually TRUE) but as if to be totally contrary and belligerent, Mother Nature presented me with snow flakes the following morning to go with my coffee. Ignore her! Spring IS going to be here sooner than you think. I know it's hard to get anything accomplished when the garage has that icy chill throughout. Persevere we must! Be thankful we don't live 5 hours further north, we'd be waiting an additional 4 weeks before we could put our precious on the pavement....
March, I believe is the month we elect new officers to lead and guide this wonderful eclectic group of Triumph enthusiasts (read sadistic gluttons for punishment) So, if there's anyone out there that is ready to make an additional contribution to what's already going on - raise your hand! Speak up! - All positions are up for grabs, election confirmed by majority vote. Every one we find, has something to contribute. It's not until you throw your self headlong into the middle of the fun, do you reap the rewards. If you have a talent without a position, we'll make a position for you! We may even add it to the book of positions! We need writers, photographers, car nuts of all shapes & sizes, come join in. Nowhere else can you have this much fun while actually keeping your car running. It's a win/win proposition! Come get involved - stick your neck out, it's kind of like being a regular in Cheers!
Don't make me stop this car....
See YOU Tuesday @ Nicoletti’s - Craig Madsen
Please mail your payment for $10 or $20 to Bonnie David at
This newsletter can use something more. You! Write up what you have been doing with your Triumph and send it to me. This is your newsletter. Without your contributions we have no newsletter. There are no rules about what can be published. No, I take that back, you gotta try to be nice. But I don’t think that is an issue for anyone I know. I guess that is why this club is so much fun!!!
There is another way to communicate with SLTOA members. That is by our email mailing list. For those who are not familiar with it, here is how it works. First you go to www.sltoa.org and register as a user. The only requirement is that you have a valid email address. Then you write an email note to email@example.com and everyone signed up on the list will receive a copy in his or her email box. If someone wants to respond back to you they click “reply” and write back to you personally. If they want make a response that everyone on the list can read they click “reply to all” and one note goes back to you and a copy goes to everyone on the list. This is the place where I go first for help on my Triumph. There is almost always someone in the club who has had the same problem as me. The other good use for the list is spontaneous drives of last minute changes to events. If you think you are interested, but still have questions, give me a ring at home. 636-678-2181
You have one additional week to get your Triumph ready. Mother Nature has one additional week to warm up the weather. For registration, contact Robert Rushing (his information is below), or Creig Houghtaling at 636-678-2181.
March 31 –
Standard class: British vehicles made before 1981
Modern class: British vehicles made from 1981-1995 or fitted with EFI/engine management systems.
We will be meeting
at the Red Roof Inn Westport (
Before the teams
leave on Saturday morning, they will drive a set course to calculate any
mileage offset that they may have with their odometers. The offset will be determined
mathematically. Also before leaving,
teams will be required to sign an event waiver then seal their driver’s license
in an envelope. Any team that gets
stopped and has to break the seal on the envelope is disqualified. Teams must drive in a safe manner and obey
Those competing in
the 5th Annual
For the first time, British vehicles made from 1981-1995 will be allowed to enter in their own class. Also included in the new class will be “modernized” British vehicles that have been fitted with electronic fuel injection and engine management systems.
If you wish to
stay the night before and/or after the rally, the recommended hotel is the Red
Roof Inn Westport, which is located behind the Hooters at
If you have
questions or need a registration application, please contact Robert Rushing at
firstname.lastname@example.org or write to him at
February 11 SLTOA Polar Bear Run Call Chris Kresser 636-394-3012
February 25 Chicagoland Annual Swap Meet www.chicagolandmgclub.com Metro Chicago, IL
March 31 - April 1 Missouri Endurance Rally www.stlouismgclub.com
April 7 Gateway Healey Wash-Up/Tune-Up
April 8 Easter Car Show
April 26-28 VTR Regional Meet www.vtr.org Metro Houston, TX
June 13-17 TRA
July 17-21 VTR National www.vtr.org Valley Forge, PA
September ?? St. Louis All British Car Show www.stlouismgclub.com
October 14 SLTOA/MG Club Fall Color Tour
October 19-21 Euro Auto
October 27 MG Club Halloween Rally and Party www.stlouismgclub.com
December 7 SLTOA Winter Party at BEVO Mill
If you need additional information, contact Chris Kresser at email@example.com
Have you had trouble getting your I.R.S. car aligned? Well I sure did. I took my TR250 in for a four wheel alignment and they said that they couldn’t do the rear. The camber of the driver’s side rear was too great for them to do any thing with it. Now apparently after many calls I have found that our cars can’t be worked on by just anybody. After some research I have found that the rear camber is adjusted by using one, two or three notched brackets with either the notches up or down. With this system you may or may not get REAL close to having the right camber but probably won’t get it exact. Well Mr. Richard Good has come up with a system that should do the trick. They are adjustable brackets. I have taken a few pictures of the brackets before I install them on my car. I have already had the entire backend out of the car once so this shouldn’t be a big deal. My garage isn’t heated so I will wait for warmer weather; say around 50deg or so before crawling under the car. I will take some after pictures so you can see what they look like installed. The following is a reprint of the installation instructions as provided by Mr. Good.
INSTALLING ADJUSTABLE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS
Reprinted with permission from Mr. Richard Good
Loosen the shock absorber link from the semi-trailing arm then raise and properly support the rear of the car.
Remove the wheels and the springs.
Remove the hub and outer axle from the trailing arm.
Disconnect the brake hose and parking brake cable from their anchor points on the trailing arm and pull the brake plate away from the trailing arm.
Note the number of shims between the frame and each bracket. Remove the outer pivot bolt and loosen the inner bracket from the frame and pull the semi-trailing arm and inner bracket away from the frame.
Lay out the new brackets as they will be positioned on the frame with the adjusters facing each other and with the adjuster bolt head facing down. Adjust the fulcrum bolts to approximately the same height as the original bracket as a starting point. The original brackets designated with one notch on the edge have the pivot bolt offset 1/8" away from the notch, the two notch brackets are 5/16" toward the notch and the three notch brackets are 7/16" away from the notch. The adjustable brackets are capable of a maximum of 3/8" offset.
Remove the inner bracket from the trailing arm and remove the outer bracket from the frame.
Replace the trailing arm bushings as needed. Good Parts Nylatron bushings are recommended.
Place a washer onto each of the frame bolts then insert them through the new brackets. Install the outer
Bracket on the frame with the adjuster toward the center of the car and the adjuster bolt head turned
Down. Insert any shims between the bracket and frame and tighten the bracket in place with flat washers
And nuts. Torque to 28 – 30 ft/lbs.
Install the inner bracket on the trailing arm with the adjuster toward the outside of the car and the adjuster bolt head turned down. The pivot bolt head and flat washer should be toward the center of the car. Do not tighten the pivot bolt at this time.
Put the trailing arm into place inserting the inner bracket frame bolts through the frame. Install the pivot bolt in the outer bracket with the flat washer and nut toward the outside of the car.
Insert any shims between the inner bracket and frame and bolt the bracket in place with flat washers and nuts. Torque to 28 – 30 ft/lb.
Torque the pivot bolts to 45 – 50 ft/lb.
Check that the trailing arm can move freely through its travel.
Put the brake plate into place and reconnect the parking brake cable and brake hose to the trailing arm. (16) Install the axle and hub in the trailing arm. Torque the six nuts to only 14 - 16 ft/lb.
Install the spring and wheel.
Lower the car and re-connect the shock link to the trailing arm
(19) Roll the car forward and back to allow the suspension to settle then check the toe and camber. Adjust the toe by manipulating the shims between the brackets and frame.
(20) To adjust the camber, raise and support the car then loosen both fulcrum bolts. Turn the adjuster bolts to raise or lower the fulcrum as needed taking care that the fulcrum bolt does not bind in the slot. The spring tension is pushing down on the front of the trailing arm and can cause the pivot bolt to tilt down and bind when you try to turn the adjuster. Hook a screwdriver or pry bar on top of the head of the lower bolt holding the bracket to the frame and pry up on the end of the trailing arm to release the tension as you turn the adjuster. Use the same prying method to relieve the downward tension and level the pivot bolt as you re-torque it. One turn on one adjuster bolt will change the camber approximately degree. Turning clockwise on the adjuster bolt of the inner bracket will lower the inner fulcrum and tilt the top of the tire to increase the negative camber. Turning counter clockwise on the outer adjuster will raise the outer fulcrum and also increase negative camber. Turning counter clockwise on the inner or clockwise on the outer will tilt the top of the tire out to reduce negative camber. Raising both inner and outer fulcrums will not change camber but will raise the ride height slightly.
Classified Ads: Contact Creig Houghtaling at , the address listed below, or 636-678-2181 to place a free ad in this newsletter.
FOR SALE, 1970 TR6, BRITISH RACING GREEN,
CARAMEL TAN INTERIOR, 3 YRS SINCE FRAME
UP REBUILD, 85% NEW PARTS, NO RUST!, NEEDS NEW TOP AND MINOR DETAILS.
$8000.00... also... FOR
For Sale - 1959 TR3A, Restored late 2001, Signal
Red, Moss Black Leather Interior, Chrome Dayton Wires, New Tires, Historical
Plates. New 87mm Motor. $18,500. There are numerous new parts on this car to
list. Sorry No Trades as I am Restoring
a TR6 to drive.
Arlie King, 636-677-0545
v Wanted - TR6. Excelent to perfect body and interior. Engine doesn't matter. Contact Fred at firstname.lastname@example.org
v Wanted - Late model TR7 automatic rear axle assembly. This unit carries a CM prefix and is equipped with a 3.08 gear ratio. -- I am currently working on a high speed TR7 project. Craig Leinicke 636 236-8452
v Wanted - I am new to the STL area and have inherited a 1968 Triumph 250. It has been in my family for many, many years. It runs, (but hasn’t been ran since the first of the year) and is in pretty good shape. I would like to begin restoration and need help on all fronts. Please send any contacts for body, engine, etc. Thanks! Matt Willis RSG-ST.LOUIS 314-664-0123
Creig Houghtaling, Editor